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| Java & Ruby |
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| Olde English Bulldogges |
What made you decide to breed bulldogs? I've
always said, "There's no dog like a bulldog." In 1992, I visited with my aunt, who had just adopted a Valley Bulldog,
which is created from the Boxer and Standard English Bulldog breeds. I had to have one. Then I had to have another
one. By the time our first litter of Valley Bulldogs was born, I was HOOKED on bulldogs for life. As I retired
my Vallies, the Olde English Bulldogge (I call them "Oldies") peaked my interest. Vallies and Oldies have much
the same personalities, but they are indeed different breeds. The Oldie is the "original" bulldog, with an athletic,
muscular build, plenty of stamina to run & play for long periods of time, they make excellent family dogs, and they
train very easily. I began raising Oldies in 2004, and I plan to stay with the Oldie breed. They are a delightful
bully breed with much to give back to their owners. Being a breeder is HARD WORK, but I believe in doing things the
RIGHT WAY. To be successful with my program, I am willing to spend whatever it takes to provide my dogs with an excellent
living environment, plenty of exercise, the best food, proper immunizations, and a whole lot of love. I spare no expense
in raising a litter of puppies. As a result, it is difficult to tell that my mamma dogs have given birth, because they
are in excellent health before, during and after pregnancy, and they are given ultimate care while raising their puppies.
We have been blessed with healthy litters and our puppies leave Dog Bluff as beefy little chunks of love.
Will my puppy come with Registration
Papers on Adoption Day? How do I get my puppy registered under my name? Our adult Oldies are registered
with several clubs: IOEBA, NBA, NKC, CKC, & WBA. All puppies born at Dog Bluff are registered shortly after
birth. They go home with pre-printed puppy certificates from the kennel club registries. Your puppy's name WILL
BEGIN with "Dog Bluff," but you may choose any name you like following our prefix.
| Ellis family meets LOLA on Adoption Day |
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What should I expect when I
bring my new puppy home? Once you send your security deposit
to hold your puppy, you will receive several chapters from my book on raising bulldog puppies. These chapters include
tips on house-training, what to do in emergency situations, required immunizations, first-purchase suggestions, best
foods to use, and more... to help you prepare for your new 4-legged child!
| "Blaze" is a Boo/Clyde pup |
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What are some ways that I can keep
my bulldog HEALTHY - and possibly increase the lifespan of my 4-legged family member?
DIET / NUTRITION plays a key role in your dog's life. We use high-quality food that contains
NO CORN / NO WHEAT / NO GLUTEN! (Please see the next Q&A section on
Nutrition.)
Keeping your dog fit & trim is essential if you want him to live longer.
I would suggest that you have your vet check your dog's weight when you're there for the 6-month check-up and again at adulthood
(around age 1 year+) to see that your dog is at optimum weight. While it is tempting to give your dog treats and spoil him
with goodies, you are only hurting him in the long run if he is overweight. Extra weight on your dog's bones will only speed
up the aging process, increase arthritis tendencies, encourage laziness, and can also be a trigger for heart disease. Proper
nutrition is only ONE of the discussions we will have when you interview with me about a Dog Bluff puppy. I have done major
research into dietary benefits and am willing to share my findings with my adoptive families.
DAILY EXERCISE is also very important!
Just as humans need a certain amount of daily exercise, our canine friends must have exercise to maintain good health. Consult
with me or with your veterinarian as to how much is enough or "too much" when it comes to your bulldog. Age must be
factored in when it comes to exercise, obviously.
NOTE: BULLDOGS WILL HAVE "BURSTS" OF ENERGY AND "RUNNING FITS" BUT THEY ARE NOT RUNNING COMPANIONS,
and they are NOT TO BE TAKEN ON LONG WALKS IN SUMMER WEATHER !!!!!
QUALITY TIME spent with your dog is a MUST.
From the time your puppy leaves Dog Bluff, it will be up to YOU to be sure your puppy bonds with you and your family. Bulldogs
are "hands-on" dogs. They MUST feel loved and they MUST have your attention. If not, they WILL become depressed. Please do
not adopt from me if you are unable to provide your puppy/dog with daily quality time. Dogs left in an kennel for hours on
end do not thrive.
What is the average Life Span of an Olde English Bulldogge? I cannot answer that question from EXPERIENCE because I have only raised bulldogs for 18 years. In that period
of time, I have only had a "few" reports that my babies had passed away from old age. IF your dog is an INSIDE dog, he/she
stands a better chance of living longer, because you are shielding the dog from the hottest/coldest months and other outside
hazards. Proper care (high quality food with NO corn/wheat/soy), health maintenance & disease prevention must be a top
priority, and adequate exercise is a plus. Also, if your dog is spayed/neutered at a young age, this is thought to increase
the life span, as reproductive cancers are no longer a threat if you remove the appropriate organs before they have time to
"age" and become hazardous to the dog's health.
| NO CORN, NO WHEAT, NO GLUTEN, NO SOY |
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What Dog Foods are best, and WHY?
I recommend BLUE BUFFALO food above any other dog food available. This food is usually found at PetSmart and high-end
pet supply stores. We prefer the Chicken or Fish/potato formulas. You will not find corn, wheat or soy in
any of their foods. You WILL find "vitasorce bites" in all of their dry food formulas, which contain essential ingredients,
vitamins & more for keeping your dog as healthy as possible.
We ONLY use food that contains NO WHEAT, NO CORN, NO GLUTEN, and NO
SOY.
Listed below are the dog foods that WE use
with excellent results. Please refer to their websites for your researching convenience.
Here's why we avoid gluten/wheat/corn/soy:
1) GLUTEN
is a sticky protein that clogs up the digestive system and adds to potential allergies.
2) WHEAT
turns to YEAST on the dog's skin. Yeast feeds the demodectic mites which live on canines & felines. If you
take wheat OUT of the diet, you decrease the chances of skin issues, such as demodex, allergies to food fillers, etc.
3) CORN is not digestible. It is a "filler" and only produces more POOP in your yard. Corn
allergies are not easily detected. So why waste money on something that is not good for your pet?
4) SOY
is not the worst enemy, but it does make "eye boogers" and ear smells worse than they need to be. It causes a protein
build-up in the body that sometimes makes for yucky results.
If you plan to CHANGE your dog's food,
remember to make this adjustment carefully, to reduce the risk of diarrhea (upset tummy). Mix 1/2 "old" food with
1/2 "new" food for 5 to 7 days.
The ONLY "TREAT" we approve of is REAL
MEAT treats. We use chicken jerkey or beef jerkey strips, found at high-end pet supply stores. Most
dog treats (doggie biscuits, etc) contain wheat, wheat gluten, corn, corn gluten, and other bad ingredients for your dog.
The wrong "treat" can totally mess up your dog's diet and skin health. Even the "all natural" treats contain ingredients
that can irritate your dog's system. We prefer NO treats to the wrong treat.
If you choose to "treat" your dog with
human / table food, the ONLY table food that is healthy for your dog would be PURE MEAT and/or DARK GREENS (green beans,
collards, spinach, kale). Most table foods turn to starch/sugar in your dog's system, which becomes Yeast on your
dog's skin.
We use ADULT formula for all ages of our dogs here, because of the research
we've done on our own. Bulldogs are clunky, thick-boned dogs. Certain puppy food contains too many "growth-speeders"
and a bulldog raised on puppy food for the first year of life tends to grow too quickly. This accelerated growth increases
the risk of early onset arthritis in the adult dog. We believe in PREVENTION at Dog Bluff, and this is just one of our
practices to help lengthen the life span of our dogs. There are very few puppy formulas that we approve of, and we are
happy to discuss that by phone.
| MANDY |
|
Are Oldies easy to train? Yes! If you spend QUALITY
TIME training your Oldie, you will have a remarkable dog that strives to please humans. These are human-touch-driven
dogs; the best reward you can give them is a "happy voice" saying "Good Dog" and add a generous amount of loving/petting
praise.
This
video of "Mandy" (Tader/Serena pup) ringing the door bell to go outside is a prime example
of how quickly a puppy can LEARN! Mandy is only 12 weeks old in this video. Quite obviously, her owner has been
diligent in potty training her along with voice commands. WELL DONE, Harris Family!
| INCA shows how loving Oldies are with their kids! |
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How are BULLDOGS with CHILDREN?
Depending on how much time you devote to obedience training, your bulldog puppy or adult dog should be excellent around children.
From adoption day throughout old age, bulldogs have the potential to be docile, well-mannered, loving dogs with laid-back
temperaments. Typically, bulldogs LOVE for children to roll all over them, hang on them, and just spend every waking
moment TOUCHING them. Bulldogs THRIVE on human touch, and they have a unique talent of reading our emotions.
As a rule, they ADOPT their "human children" and are pretty good protectors of children.
| Chelsea & Puddin having a little bed-time talk... |
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While my dogs are very clown-like and just thrive on attention and playtime
with their owners, I do give one specific warning to parents of small children: Once your bulldog has
reached adulthood, DO NOT SPANK YOUR CHILD in front of your grown bulldog. I have not had any reports of ANY of my dogs
biting their owners in this type of situation, but I can say with certainty that a bulldog WILL put himself between a parent
and small child if the dog believes that the child is in danger.
| TADER w/Chelsea, our niece |
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So... if you feel the need to spank your child, it
is best to put the dog outside or in another room before doing so. For that matter, if you raise your voice to a threatening
tone at your child, be prepared for your bulldog to hover close to your child out of sheer protection. The
dog may still be wagging his tail at you, in hopes that you're not "mad" at HIM! But he will take the brunt of
your anger before he'll allow you to harm your own child, regardless of the fact that your child deserves to be disciplined.
This is just one of the ways that a bulldog shows LOVE for children. In the same respect, if your child is outside
playing, your bulldog will have a watchful eye on your child AND the environment around your child.
| Clyde w/our niece, Brianna |
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Rest assurred that no harm will come to your child without "war" between
your bulldog and an intruder to your property. Lord willing, though, this will not be an issue. But I take much
comfort in the fact that my bulldogs love children, adults, and even senior citizens equally, and make excellent pets for
any age person.
This VIDEO clip of "Blaze" and his little girl, Rachel is one of many sweet
& funny examples of how much our dogs LOVE kids. "Blaze" is a 2010 Boo/Clyde pup, about half-grown here. Enjoy!
SAFETY with CHILDREN & PUPPIES, VERY IMPORTANT: Please educate small children on "how" to handle a young puppy. For the first several
months, your puppy is at risk for bodily injury, which can happen just by picking him up the wrong way or dropping him by
accident. Dropping your puppy can kill him, or cause life-long brain & bodily damage. Picking up your puppy
the wrong way can stress bones & joints and can actually pull bones out of their sockets. Your puppy can suffer
a dislocated hip or shoulder instantly if not handled properly, so please do not pull the puppy's legs when playing, either.
Bulldogs have "clunky" bodies that take a while to develop. Please protect your puppy and work with small children so
that the puppy's body is supported at all times if being picked-up, carried, etc.
I find it best to have children sit on
the floor and allow Pup to crawl up in the child's lap to be loved on. If picking up, however, please have one
hand under Pup's bottom and one hand/arm around Pup's body. Always support Pup's weight with a hand/arm under his behind
to prevent stressing the bones/joints/muscles. (Never pick up Pup behind the front legs, as this puts all his weight
hanging by his shoulders.) Lots of people pick up a child under the arm pits... please don't do this to your puppy.
Remember, a new puppy is much like a
newborn human baby, especially regarding head injuries and bone/joint risks.
For an excellent example of how to hold
a puppy, please notice the way "Maggie" is being held in the photo below.
| Maggie Winton enjoys her human taxi! |
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| 2011 Boo/Clyde pup |
What Health Guarantee comes
with a Dog Bluff puppy? How old is my puppy on Adoption Day? How do I protect my puppy from fatal
diseases? Is my puppy checked by a veterinarian prior to Adoption Day? Please see my ADOPTION PROCESS page for the answers to these questions. I am happy to email
our health contract for your review, as I require this completed document for my files when you reserve a puppy. I
offer convenient options to reserve & pay for your puppy as well as getting your puppy home safe/sound, regardless of
where you live on the map!
| Bodie Jones lives in Greenville, SC |
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My puppy is into EVERYTHING...
what if he eats a foreign object or gets sick over the weekend and my vet is unavailable? I tell ALL
of my clients to PLEASE CALL ME IMMEDIATELY if they feel they have a canine emergency. There are quick-fixes
and several home remedies that I've learned over the years which can normally save a trip to the Emergency Vet, but it depends
largely on "timing." I have helped many-a-client with minor medical situations, and MOST of the time, they are
able to wait until the next business day to go to their regular veterinarian. PLEASE NOTE, however: If I feel
that you have a true emergency, I WILL advise you to drop whatever you're doing and get your puppy to the vet. The photo
in this section is of "Bodie," who had a little situation one weekend. His mom contacted me upon noticing "different"
behavior. Within one telephone conversation, we were able to avoid an expensive weekend ER vet visit, and within
a few days, Bodie was nearly 100% well again. It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to KNOW YOUR PUPPY'S PERSONALITY & ROUTINE.
Many thanks to Bodie's parents for being alert to him, and for this precious thank-you note! I'm always amazed at the
creativity my dogs inspire in people!
What if my dog gets sick or
has a wound/sore/insect bite over the weekend, and I'm unable to find a veterinarian? What products do YOU keep in stock
as a breeder, since you have several dogs? I will not be without the following 4 items here at Dog Bluff.
I can order most of it from www.revivalanimal.com , and I can also find ALL of it at my local feed/grain store (horse & animal supply stores are helpful).
 
My dog is "old" and he
sometimes has knots under his skin or between his toes. What supplements would you suggest? Our adult
dogs receive 1 shark cartilage capsule every day, just because it's a wonderful source of bone-health. Shark cartilage
is also used to reduce & cure many types of tumors! Sharks are the only animal known to be cancer-resistant;
therefore, we give this to our adult dogs as "prevention" once they've reached adulthood. ALL of our dogs receive fish-oil
capsules (usually, the cheapest bottle of fish-oil caps we can find, in "bulk," because this is their daily "treat" here at
Dog Bluff). My dogs LINE UP for their fish-oil gel cap each day! My veterinarian advises this supplement because
it is easily absorbed into the body, and is an excellent lubricant for the joints. Our dogs are thick-boned, heavy-bodied,
and ACTIVE. They benefit from this inexpensive supplement.
 What QUESTIONS should I ask
when I am shopping around for the right veterinarian's office? I would start with the following questions:
1) What are your hours/days of business?
2) What are your after-hours / emergency care procedures / policies?
Am I allowed to call the doctor at home after business hours if I have a true emergency or must I travel to my nearest ER
vet?
3) Do you offer injectible bordatella (kennel cough) vaccines rather
than the nasally-administered vaccine? (Much better to stay with injectible-only vaccines for bulldogs and
other short-muzzled breeds.)
4) What is your standard office visit fee? How much will it be when
I bring my new puppy in for its second set of shots and a stool check?
5) How much is the Rabies vaccine if my dog is there for a routine visit?
Do you offer Rabies vaccine CLINICS each year? If so, how much would the Rabies vaccine be at the clinic?
6) How old must my puppy be, or how much must my puppy weigh before
it's old enough to be spayed / neutered? What are the price ranges for that surgery? (Our dogs range
from 55-75 lbs as adults.) If my puppy has a belly-button (umbilical hernia - happens from time to time), how much
extra do you charge to correct that during spay/neuter surgery?
7) May I drop off my dog early in the morning and pick him up after work?
Is there an extra charge for my dog to stay with you during the appointment day?
8) What is your procedure if an animal believed to be infected with
parvo or distemper happens to walk into your office? (This is a real
danger to young puppies!!! Please carry your puppy into the vet's office and do NOT let your puppy touch the floor or the
ground of suspicious environments... your puppy will not be protected against fatal diseases until he has received at least
3 rounds of puppy shots. Even then, please use caution before exposing your new puppy to high-animal-traffic areas.
Distemper/Parvo is extremely easy to pass from animal-to-animal, AND from PEOPLE-to-animal just from simple contact with an
infected animal.)
| Mary Ann Janes owns BUCKEYE DOG HAUL Transport. |
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| Mary Ann has transported several Dog Bluff babies for us, SAFE & SOUND! |
How do I reserve a puppy,
and how do I get that puppy home if I live across the map from you? When you're ready to adopt, please CALL me for an interview. PLEASE read my "Adoption
Process" page, as it covers everything from our first call to several safe/reliable transport options. We will NOT ship your puppy in the belly of a plane; please
do not ask.
 How do you determine Picking
Order for Adoptive Families? I usually keep a "waiting list" of folks who wish to be contacted
when breedings take place. PICKING ORDER IS DETERMINED BY THE ORDER IN WHICH SECURITY DEPOSITS ARE RECEIVED.
I honor your place in picking order by the date your security deposit is supposed to arrive in my mailbox or appear in my PayPal
account. I expect follow-up communication from my clients throughout the entire adoption process, especially when dealing
with finances.
FOR EXAMPLE: You are 3rd on my waiting
list for a puppy, and I call you with news that puppies have been born. You have a few business days to get
your security deposit to me to secure "3rd-pick" for that litter. If the 1st or 2nd pick families ahead of
you change their minds or do not respond in a timely manner, YOU move up in picking order! This is the
ONLY way I am able to be fair to all concerned. My system has worked all these years without any complaints from my
adoptive families, and I am PROUD to say that I have had several return clients!
| Samoa was adopted by Blue Ridge Bullies, Va |
|
Do you sell to other breeders?
If a RESPONSIBLE breeder proves to me that he/she shares my beliefs, morals
and practices in breeding bulldogs, I do make this consideration and allow my puppies to be placed into a respected breeding
program. Typically, however, I prefer that my puppies are adopted into pet-only homes with a spay/neuter agreement by
age 6 to 8 months of age.
Should I microchip my puppy/dog?
This is totally a personal preference. There are advantages and disadvantages to this mode of protection / proof of
ownership. Please discuss this with your vet, and I am happy to elaborate during our interview.
| THIS is true enthusiasm for puppy preparation! |
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| THANK YOU to the Woodall Family for allowing me to use this photo on my website! |
What are some things that I
need in my home before Adoption Day? My clients receive a list of "suggested first
purchases" which include the following items. This list is not mandatory, but covers many items that are needed from
time to time with new puppies:
1) LARGE (open-air / steel) CRATE (See Video Example Below)
http://youtu.be/Rtvishpm10Q
2) Food and Water Bowls that ATTACH TO THE WIRE OF THE CRATE.
3)
DOG HOUSE for outside shelter IF
your dog will be outside for long periods of time.
4) DOG FOOD that
contains NO CORN, NO WHEAT, NO SOY.
5)
Adams Flea & Tick mist, SAFE
for Puppies.
6)
Frontline Plus – dosed
by the weight of your dog.
7) DIGITAL THERMOMETER.
8)
Baby Wipes / Handy-Wipes
NON-scented.
9)
FREE Stuff: NEWSPAPERS & Old Sheets.
 How do I keep shedding down
to a minimum? I provide my clients with helpful tips on safe products and how to keep a bulldog's skin healthy.
You'd be surprised at our tried-&-true methods. First, NUTRITION plays a key role in healthy bulldog skin/coat. We
do not use "soap" on our puppies/dogs unless they have rolled in grease or something "nasty." In the event that
actual shampoo is needed, we prefer human dandruff shampoo (Selson Blue, Head & Shoulders, T-Gel brands are best), because
these are formulated for sensative skin. Be sure to rinse well, as soap residue is a major cause for skin irritation.
Do not over-bathe your puppy/dog. I instruct my clients to bathe their dog only when the dog begins to "smell like a
dirty dog." If your dog is not stinky, leave him alone and let him be a dog. You may spray him with Adams Flea/Tick
mist if you're worried about fleas or use Frontline for month-long flea/tick prevention. But don't bathe your puppy/dog
more than weekly, and preferably no more than twice monthly. The fewer baths, the better. You can diminish your
dog's natural oils that keep the skin & coat healthy if you overbathe.
GROOMING is minimal with a bulldog as long as you provide proper nutrition.
The less you brush, the less mess you will have.
| Our AB, "Cindy," mentoring little "Java" |
|
| Puppies will chew/eat ANYTHING |
Will my puppy BITE/CHEW on my
fingers/toes and on anything he can get his teeth on? YEP! The first reason for biting/chewing
is that your puppy needs to lose his baby teeth, and chewing is the only way to get rid of the baby teeth. Secondly, HE
IS A PUPPY! He has been raised with siblings; over
the course of 6 weeks together, THEY PLAY HARD. They pull each other's ears, grab each other's legs, play tug-o-war
with sticks, towels, or any object they can get their teeth into. Your puppy will be confused during the transition
from Dog Bluff to your home so it might take a few days for you to experience the play-biting thing. But once he "comes
alive" and feels comfortable with you and your family, he WILL go for toes, fingers, pant legs-- whatever is close
enough to "PLAY" with. This is a NATURAL habit for puppies. It's a playing way to establish dominance among puppies,
but you do not want this to become an issue a your puppy grows up. Bulldog puppies are "cute" and sound so funny when
they growl at each other, or even at YOU when you discipline him -- it's almost tempting to "make" your puppy growl by getting
into an aggressive play stance with him. But please know that your puppy will grow up to be a big bulldog one day, and
you certainly don't want that adult bulldog to think that he is the boss. You must establish and keep all humans in
the household as "Alpha" in pecking order. Your dog must never be allowed to chew on you as a puppy. Therefore,
please have plenty of alternative chew toys or teething tools. Our preference is a dear antler, or some type of NATURAL
bone substance that will not splinter and choke your puppy/dog. We can discuss appropriate chew tools for your puppy
during our telephone conversations (please remind me!).
How to correct play-biting: DO NOT ALLOW
YOUR PUPPY TO BITE OR CHEW ON YOU! You must be the "alpha" in your home. Allowing your puppy to chew on your
hands or even your toes tells that puppy that he is the "boss" and can run over you from now on.
Step 1) If/when your
puppy bites or chews at you, yell "No Bite!" while you push him away from you. Then, immediately give him a chew tool
that was purchased just for him.
Step 2) If he comes back
for more, accompany the "No Bite" with a flyswatter to his behind, with a few quick taps, just enough to sting him a bit.
Again, place his chew tool toward his mouth for reinforcement on what he is allowed to chew. Pet him if he chews on
the "allowed" chew tool.
Step 3) If he returns
a THIRD time to chew on you, repeat step 2, but pop him with the flyswatter until you KNOW it has stung his behind,
because he will probably run for cover at this point. Still, take him the allowed chew tool again, and pet him when
he chews on it.
Step 4) If steps 1-3 do
not work, put pup in his kennel for some down time, and fuss at him ("No Bite!") all the way to the kennel.
Please Note: Flyswatters offer a safe way to discipline your bulldog puppy.
It offers a little "sting" without causing damage to his bone structure. You must be careful about discipline methods,
because you can HURT your puppy by spanking him with your hand or with other objects. We keep a flyswatter in every
room of our house. Even our ADULT dogs respect the swatter!
Do bulldogs DIG outside?
Almost every breed will "dig" if given the opportunity. Generally, this is from boredom or can be from the dog feeling
lonely. Sometimes, the dog smells a "critter" and digs to FIND the critter! Outside dogs dig because
they love the feeling of the cool dirt. If you'll notice, after dogs dig a hole, they lay right down in it!
If given plenty of playtime and supervision, you should not have trouble with the digging thing.
 Why do you push
the idea of spay/neuter by the age of 7 months? I prefer that my puppies are PETS ONLY in their adoptive homes. For this reason, there is no need
for a female to go through the trouble of heat cycles that can begin around age 6 to 8 months of age; these cycles ruin
carpet, flooring, furniture, etc., and will attract male dogs to the property from miles away. Males don't worry with
heat cycles, but they will tend to "wander" when they are left intact for life, in search of females in heat. BIG HEALTH
BENEFIT to spay/neuter: Dogs normally live longer when this is done early in their lives. When spayed, females
are less likely to have cancer-causing uterine problems. Neutering a male dog is not necessarily crucial before adulthood,
but the sooner you neuter your male, the sooner you take away the chances of testicular cancer. Basically, you lengthen
the life span of your dog by spay/neuter surgery early in life.
| OLDE ENGLISH BULLDOGGE |
|
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| Dog Bluff SHERMAN |
What
is the difference between an Olde English Bulldogge (OEB/Oldie) and a Standard English Bulldog (EB) ???
The
Olde English Bulldogge (Oldie) is close to what the ORIGINAL bulldog was, bred to be an athletic and
healthy farm dog. They were meant to be healthy, hearty, and strong, able to live outdoors in most climates. A
Dog Bluff adult Oldie will range from 60-85 pounds (depending on gender and parents' structure), will sport a bully head and
a taught, muscular body. Average height in our adults ranges from 18-20 inches at the top of the shoulder. Our
Oldies are bully and wrinkly enough to be beautiful, but they have enough muzzle length to free-breathe,
run, & play all day long without difficulty! All of our Oldies live OUTSIDE, but they DO have access to our
A/C building in the summer months, just because we spoil our bully kids around here. However, they prefer swimming in
the pond to sitting around in the A/C! As a rule, Oldies breed and whelp naturally.
The Standard English Bulldog (EB) was thought to be created by selective breeding techniques, making a shorter, more compact build of bulldog. The
EB is very short (ranging from 15-18 inches in height) and extremely "bully" - very flat-faced / hardly any muzzle length,
wrinkled face/head & body, and quite often has a screw-tail. Even though the EB is smaller and "cute" to the eyes, their
body structure IS physically limiting.
By reducing the length of the muzzle, the nasal passageways are crunched, increasing the chances of breathing problems.
Typically, EB's must live inside, as their muzzles are too short to withstand outside elements. Due to shorter leg length,
the EB is normally not as athletic as an Oldie. Between their short stature and short muzzles, they are usually
unable to do strenuous exercise without becoming exhausted. And, because they are so short and compact, EB's
are prone to weight gain; so owners must be careful to monitor food intake. An adult EB should not weigh
over 55-60 lbs. EB's have difficulty whelping puppies, and usually require C-section surgery. Breeding is normally
a challenge, as well.
My preference
is the Oldie, simply for the overall health, athleticism, stamina, and personality!
Examples of both breeds:
Standard
English Bulldog vs. Olde English Bulldogge
|
| STANDARD ENGLISH BULLDOG |
| OLDE ENGLISH BULLDOGGE |
|
|
| OLDE ENGLISH BULLDOGGE |
|
| STANDARD ENGLISH BULLDOG |
Copied from the IOEBA Website:
http://www.ioeba.net/olde_english_bulldogge_breed_standard.htm
I.O.E.B.A. Breed Standard
(International Olde Elglish Bulldogge Association)
General Description
: The
ideal Olde English Bulldogge is a loyal, courageous dog of medium size with a large powerful head and stout muscular body.
Olde
English Bulldogges are athletic and most importantly of very good health, males are free breeders and females are free whelpers.
The Olde English Bulldogge
is devoid of all breathing issues and is capable of enjoying outdoor activity
without concern except in extreme heat or cold.
The temperament is very stable and trustworthy making them a loyal companion,
capable protector and the ultimate family member.
Olde English
Bulldogges thrive on pleasing their owners and are very trainable.
Their
lifespan is between 10 and 14 years.
Head : Large and high,
moderately sunken between the eyes (medial furrow).
The circumference of the head should be equal to or greater than the
dog's height at the shoulder. A narrow head or one that appears too small for the body is a fault.
Ears : Rose ears set well on the sides of the head are preferred. Dropped
ears are acceptable as long they are small, not “hound like”. Full pricked ears that stand up on top of the head
should be considered a serious fault.
Muzzle : Broad, deep and short with moderate wrinkling. The bite is undershot
with the bottom jaw turning up noticeably. L Muzzle too long (more than 3 inches), scissor
bite or even bite are disqualifying faults. Muzzle should be no shorter than 1 ½”. Wry jaw is a disqualifying fault.
Eyes
: Wide apart and of moderate size. Any color is acceptable. However, odd eyes (one dark, one blue or light) should be considered
non preferred. Misshapen or bugged eyes are a serious fault. Lacking pigment around the eyes is undesirable. Crossed eyes
or non-symmetrically shaped eyes are a disqualifying fault.
Nose : Broad with open nostrils
(nares) with no sign of air restriction. The nose should not be pushed up between the eyes. From the stop to the end of the
nose must be at least one and one half inches. The nose should be a Neck
: Short to medium in length and very muscular flowing into the shoulders and should not be set on the dog so it appears to
stop at the shoulders.
Chest : Ribs should be well sprung (rounded) and the chest wide and deep.
Depth of chest should be at least to the elbows.
A hollow or narrow chest (slab
sided) should be considered a serious fault.
Back
: Males should appear square and balanced. Females should appear similar with consideration given for body length. Short with
a very slight rise from the shoulders to a slight drop in the croup is preferred. A level back is acceptable as long as the
tail does not come straight off the top of the back. Shoulders
: Shoulders should be well laid back with significant angulations to allow for good movement. Straight shoulders are a fault.
Legs
: Forelegs should be straight and wide apart, neither bowing out nor turning in. There should be significant bone substance.
Elbows should be relatively close to the body. Lacking bone and substance
is very undesirable. Elbows that are loose or “fiddle fronts” are a disqualifying fault. “East / West”
forelegs are a serious fault.
Rear legs should exhibit significant bend of stifle so to allow for good movement.
They should be well muscled. Straight or “posty” rear legs are a serious fault.
Cow hocks are a disqualifying
fault.
Movement
: Dogs should have a balanced gait that drives off the rear and is complimented by reach allowing the dog to cover ground
with a sense of power.
Dogs should single track. Pacing or crabbing is a serious fault.
Feet : Round, tight
both front and rear, and the pasterns should be strong.
Weak pasterns and/or splayed feet are disqualifying faults.
Height : Males
- 18 to 20 inches at the shoulder. Females - 17 to 19 inches at the shoulder.
Weight
: Between 50 to 70 lbs. for females and 65 to 85 lbs. for males. Although height and weight above the standard is to be discouraged,
there is no penalty as
long as the dog is well proportioned, otherwise correct and balanced.
Color : Any color,
except merle, is acceptable with no preference
for one over another. The coat is short. A wavy coat or a long coat is a disqualifying fault. There should be no signs of
feathering on the legs or neck area, also a disqualifying fault.
Tail
: A pump handle tail that naturally reaches the hock is preferred, screwed short
or a docked tails are acceptable. The
pump handle tail should be carried low and not over the back of the dog.
Temperament
: Disposition should be outgoing and happy. While a watchful nature may be expected at home, human aggression without provocation
is a disqualifying fault.
| Olde English STUDS can be territorial |
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| We keep our males SEPARATED so they have their own territories. |
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| Male OLDIES need their own territories. |
| Cindy (our AB) loves ALL PUPPIES. |
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| Opposite sexes do best if you desire 2 bully breeds in your home. |
We own an OLD dog.
What should I do to make sure my OLD dog will accept a NEW PUPPY? It is YOUR responsibility to
make sure you have socialized your older dog appropriately before bringing in a new puppy or a new adult dog. My strongest
advice is to expose your older dog to other small dogs or puppies if you have willing participants to help you with this.
You may also contact your local PetSmart or a local trainer to seek advice on obedience and socialization training.
I do NOT pretend to be a dog trainer. Please be confident that your current pets WILL ACCEPT A NEW PUPPY before you
reserve a Dog Bluff puppy.
This video shows how Cindy (our American Bulldog)
and Clyde (our Oldie stud male) "tend" to the younger puppies. Cindy adopts every puppy born to Dog Bluff, and ALL
of our adult Oldies accept & love new puppies here. You must SOCIALIZE your adult bully with
dogs of other ages to expect harmony between your older dog and a "new addition."
 Will my bulldog love my CAT?
Excellent question! If you already OWN a cat, and you are adopting a bulldog PUPPY, everything should be fine.
(It's good if your cat's front paws are declawed, as one scratch to the puppy's eye can result in an ulcerated cornea.)
You may EXPECT the cat to paw & hiss at a new puppy, because cats just don't have the tolerance that dogs do for newbies
in the home. Most of the time, cats and new puppies end up sleeping together and being life long buddies. TIP:
Make sure the litterbox is out of reach to puppies/dogs, because cat poop seems to be a temptation to puppies/dogs to eat
- YUCK! Now... IF you own a cat and you plan on adopting an Adult bulldog, you must be sure that the dog is socialized
with cats prior to adoption, or you may have a major disaster on your hands. For example, our dogs consider stray
cats, squirrells, ground moles, mice, slow birds, oppossums, and other "critters" as FAIR GAME. We don't have cats,
so felines are considered "critters" on our farm, and bulldogs are critter-gitters. I have had my Retiree dogs to be
adopted into homes with cats, and they did just fine. But I cannot guarantee that an adult dog of any breed will take
well to a cat. Puppies, on the other hand, are just great to socialize with cats and/or any other species of pets already
in the home.
In the photo below, "BABY" and her new brother,
Diezel relax in total comfort. At age 10 months, Baby (spayed female OEB) had to be re-homed for reasons beyond
her control. The McPherson's already owned "Diesel," an adult male boxer, and they were searching for a female
bully-breed companion for him. Diezel accepted Baby immediately, and the McPherson's were patient as Baby adapted to
their family routine. Within a short period of time, Baby was very content and relaxed in her forever home.
| Baby (left) and her new brother, Diezel (right) |
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| Dog Bluff BABY was rehomed as a young adult with the McPherson's. |
We wish to adopt an ADULT DOG,
past all the puppy worries, and hopefully, easy to housetrain. How do we make sure this dog will get along with our
other pets? First, I recommend that your adult dogs be opposite sex for best compatibility,
especially if you have bully breeds. You "might" be successful with two females in the home, but I advise against
two males being in the home. Eventually, one of the males WILL establish himself as the dominant/alpha male, which could
result in harm to one or both dogs. For best harmony, allow the dogs to have their own "space" and do not force
your first dog to adjust to the new dog's routine - it is up to YOU to help the new dog adapt to your home environment and
to fall into the routine that best fits your family. With patience, lots of supervision, and perhaps some obedience
training, adopting an adult dog into your home can be a blessing.
| "INCA" is loved by the Stone family of Hawaii ! |
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| Inca is a Sherman/Gracie pup |
I know that for the first few
nights in the new home, my puppy will CRY in his kennel for a while, UNLESS I put him in bed with me. Is this a
GOOD thing or a BAD thing to start? Allowing a puppy to sleep with you or your kids is TOTALLY up to
YOU, the adoptive family. I don't judge, either way. If you can stand the first few nights of your new puppy sqawking
for long periods of time, go for it. The quicker that puppy learns that the kennel is his bed, the better. BUT,
if you are a "snuggler" and you don't mind your puppy snuggling with you at bedtime, here's my suggestion:
BUY A WATERPROOF MATTRESS PAD and do NOT be upset when that puppy pees
in your bed. THINK ABOUT THIS: What is the FIRST thing you do when you wake up in the mornings? Most of
us hit the restroom, right? It is no different for a puppy / dog. When a puppy wakes up, the first urge
is to urinate. If your puppy so much as whimpers during the night, it's time to jump up and take him out for a potty
break. If you're too sleepy to do this quickly, you should expect an "accident" to happen. Instead of getting
mad at the puppy (puppies do not have complete control of the bladder for 3 to 4 months), just be prepared for accidents and
deal with them as they happen. My biggest rule of thumb in house training or if you choose to allow your puppy in the
bed is this: If your puppy has an accident inside the home whatsoever, it is YOUR FAULT. Deal with it.
There is hardly a substitute for the bond between a child and a new
puppy; if your child begs for the puppy to be in the bed, that's totally your call. But protect the mattress ahead of
time, so that you're not forced to purchase a new mattress.
| Sherman, Jr. with his girl, Morgan |
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| It's hard to beat a bully pillow! |
| BODIE enjoys his doggie mattress... |
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| There are countless types of dog beds and/or supportive mattresses available to pamper your bully. |
How long has Dog Bluff Bulldogges'
breeding program been around? I am proud to have enjoyed our breeding program since 1992! With each
planned breeding and with each litter I raise, I ALWAYS learn something new, which allows me to keep improving my program.
I am blessed with excellent bloodlines, and with outstanding clients!
| "Louie" (Oldie-Boxer) and his KIDS |
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| Parents are Sherman (OEB) and Chancey (Boxer) |
| VINNY is an Oldie-Boxer, owned by Eric of SC |
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| Parents are Clyde (OEB) and Chancey (Boxer) |
Have you ever done cross-breeding?
Certainly. In the past, we have done experimental "hybrid" breedings between our Oldie male and our Boxer female
(now retired), creating a hybrid bully litter. We produced these "affordable" bulldogs for the benefit
of families who could not spend $1500 on a pure Oldie pup. I lovingly deemed these hybrid pups my "Oldie-Boxers." I kept a waiting list for these hybrid puppies, and several of their owners have provided a paragraph
on my Reference Page. I retired my boxer after 3 litters, and she now enjoys the comforts of her forever home with
extended family members. The adoptive families fortunate enough to own our Oldie-Boxers wish that we still
did this cross breeding, but we've decided to stick to the pure Oldies from here on out. I am not opposed to the
idea of studding our males to approved females of certain bully breeds, IF I am sure that the result will be a beautiful hybrid
litter with excellent temperament and body structure. Part of being a breeder is being open-minded enough to explore
possibilities. Still, the pure Olde English Bulldogge is my preference when it comes to bully breeds.
 How often do you breed your
females? When an adult female is mature enough to breed (approximately 18 months to 2 years of age),
we assist her with and supervise the raising of her first litter closely, to determine what kind of mamma dog she will be.
If she proves to be a "natural" at motherhood with her first litter, we will sometimes allow her to breed again on the following
heat cycle; this produces two litters within a year. We will then give this dog a full year "off" before breeding her
again. Sometimes, a female will only have ONE litter and is then spayed for early retirement, depending
on how she reacts to motherhood. "Good mamma" dogs will usually have 3 litters before retiring at a young age,
so that they have a long life with their Forever Families. We never expect our females to raise more than 3 litters.
 If I decide to breed my female
dog, will you be there to help me through that process? I do not sell my puppies for breeding purposes. I
do not appreciate it when people buy a puppy from me and decide later on a "whim" to breed their dog. Can I prevent
this from happening? NO. But I can warn you in advance: If you have any intentions of breeding your
female Dog Bluff bulldog, you need to make this clear in your adoption interview. We can go into an in-depth conversation
that will probably convince you to stick with Pet-Only adoption. Please do extensive research on the perils of
breeding before you ask for my advice on the subject, as I value my family time and do not care to spend hours on the
telephone with someone who is not prepared for the physical, emotional and financial responsibilities of breeding a bulldog.
The potential nightmares of birthing and raising puppies are too numerous to list on this page. I do this because it
is my PASSION and I signed on for all of the ups AND downs of having a successful breeding program. It took me several
years to actually have one litter that I saw any profit on, and that was very little. If you think that breeding your
dog is FUN, offers extra money for your household, and that you want your dog to experience being a mamma "just once
and then I'll have her spayed..." - you are putting yourself AND your dog through totally unnecessary mental and physical
stress. I wish I had a dollar for every time I've heard somebody say, "Dogs have been having puppies for centuries -
my dog will be fine... nature will take its course..." Belive me, nature WILL take its course and have you running to
your vet for an emergency C-section in the middle of the night. With most Oldie mammas, birthing is natural, but sometimes
even the most athletic dog can have complications and emergency surgery is the only option to save mamma dog and hopefully,
puppies. Whether birthing is natural or surgical, there are many things that can go wrong; an inexperienced
owner is likely to lose puppies if not educated on how to help mamma and pups. You'll be praying that your mamma dog lives
so that you're not bottle-feeding a litter of puppies every 2 hours, 24/7, getting zero sleep, tending to sick puppies if
they get so much as a sniffle, tending to mamma dogs with mastitis. Even if you are fortunate enough to have a
good mamma dog that does EVERYTHING RIGHT with her puppies, you still need to be a stay-at-home owner for the duration of
raising your puppies to the point that they are eating dry food and drinking water independently... that would be at least
4 to 5 weeks being able to supervise the entire ordeal. The amount of money you will spend on raising a litter
the RIGHT way will make your head spin.
Do I have a problem with spontaneous breeders? YES.
| The ZENO family adopted Dog Bluff Clyde |
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How do I obtain a Dog Bluff "RETIREE?"
When
placing our RETIREES, we screen families just as carefully as we do for young puppies. The #1 requirement is that
our Retiree be spayed/neutered within 1 month of adoption into the new home. This allows for BONDING time between
the dog and the new family, as the dog will be dependent upon its Forever Family for comfort after the surgery. Prior
to adoption approval, Angela reserves the right to a telephone interview with your veterinarian to make sure your vet is familiar
with the Olde English breed, etc.
Advantages of Adopting a Retiree:
House-trained, Maintenance-Free,
Up to date on ALL health care, Protected against heartworms / fleas / ticks, wormed regularly, VERY socialized with people
and other dogs, and a Retiree is PAST all of the puppy worries.
ADOPTION CONDITIONS:
* Must be SPAYED/NEUTERED
within 1 month of adoption. No exceptions to this rule. If spayed / neutered before leaving Dog Bluff, the adoptive
family is responsible for all costs relating to the surgery.
PLEASE NOTE: If adoptive
family requests that we have the dog spayed/neutered, WE WILL ONLY USE OUR VETERINARIAN.
* Cats are
NOT SAFE. Our dogs are not raised with cats, so we cannot guarantee the outcome of placing a Dog Bluff adult dog
with your cat.
* Must be an
INSIDE HOME. Our dogs are doggie-door house-trained. If a doggie-door is not an option, our retirees
adapt very well to "normal" house-training. We get no complaints on this issue. We require that you offer
plenty of outside play/exercise time, for our retirees to maintain excellent health.
* We PREFER our
Retiree to be the ONLY DOG in the home. We will consider homes with 1 canine companion of
the opposite sex, depending on its breed, age, and temperament. Circumstances must be ideal if adult bullies
are to live in harmony.
| AMERICAN BULLDOG |
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| RENSCOT'S DOG BLUFF CINDY |
What does the AMERICAN BULLDOG ("AB") breed
have to do with the Olde English Bulldogge breed? Many moons ago, the Olde English Bulldogge ("Oldie") was
created by using various bully breeds, establishing the look / structure / size(s) and temperament found in generational Oldies
today. Among those foundational breeds, my favorite
is the AB, which is largely responsible for the intelligence and athletic ability of an Oldie. We own 1 AB, "Cindy,"
who serves as my protector in the house and on the farm.
| AMERICAN BULLDOG, "CINDY" |
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Cindy sleeps in the house, but during the day she "trains" our
Oldies how to be watch-dogs. Cindy is a great companion and serves as a mighty security system. She
adores our immediate family, and certain children/friends who frequent our home. However, she has NO TIME for
strangers to the property, human or canine. The AB is a WORKING BREED. Cindy is happiest when she has our
attention; she loves fetching a tennis ball from the pond, running the fence line for "critters," and seems to have endless
energy for life. We would describe the AB breed as being "high octane" -- so, if you are researching this breed
for adoption, please be willing to spend quality time in OBEDIENCE TRAINING, and provide your AB with plenty of daily
exercise to keep him/her happy & healthy. I don't know what I would do without my "Cindy" girl.
| Our niece, Becca, and Cindy have slumber parties |
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| If Cindy loves you, she REALLY LOVES you! |
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