 What made you decide to breed bulldogs? I've always said, "There's no dog like a bulldog." In 1992, I visited with my aunt, who had just adopted
a Valley Bulldog, which is created from the Boxer and Standard English Bulldog breeds. I had to have one. Then
I had to have another one. By the time our first litter of Valley Bulldogs was born, I was HOOKED on bulldogs for life.
As I retired my Vallies, the Olde English Bulldogge (I call them "Oldies") peaked my interest. Vallies and Oldies
have much the same personalities, but they are indeed different breeds. The Oldie is the "original" bulldog, with an
athletic, muscular build, plenty of stamina to run & play for long periods of time, they make excellent family dogs,
and they train very easily. I began raising Oldies in 2004, and I plan to stay with the Oldie breed. They are
a delightful bully breed with much to give back to their owners. Being a breeder is HARD WORK, but I believe in doing
things the RIGHT WAY. To be successful with my program, I am willing to spend whatever it takes to provide my dogs with
an excellent living environment, plenty of exercise, the best food, proper immunizations, and a whole lot of love. I
spare no expense in raising a litter of puppies. As a result, it is difficult to tell that my mamma dogs have given
birth, because they are in excellent health before, during and after pregnancy, and they are given ultimate care while raising
their puppies. We have been blessed with healthy litters and our puppies leave Dog Bluff as beefy little chunks of love.
Angela's response to a "rip-off report" posted online 10/21/08 by a complete
stranger:
In 2008, I was contacted by a man who accused me of being a bad
breeder because I preferred docking tails rather than leaving long/straight tails on my puppies. He also said that I
was wrong to allow screwtail puppies to LIVE - that screwtail pups should be put down at birth. I quickly hung up the phone. I then began receiving
offensive emails from him, and I reported this to my phone/internet company. I thought the harrassment would end by blocking
his calls and emails.
In late 2009, a client
brought the 10/21/08 ripoff report to my attention. I could not believe the slanderous lies and the direct
intent to hurt my reputation in that report. Not only had the "reporter" used poor grammar, but his accusations were completely
unfounded. Even worse, there is NO TELEPHONE NUMBER AVAILABLE to contact the administrator of the ripoff website. Emailing
them was non-effective, and it was made clear that the report would remain posted for the duration of cyberspace, regardless of
any rebuttal I chose to post in response to the report. Basically, ANYONE can go there to post a ripoff report
against another individual or business, without proof or just cause. No investigation / research will be done on
behalf of the individual(s) being reported. I find this to be pretty offensive and quite disappointing.
I was "tempted" to post a public rebuttal
on the rip off website so that readers could click on my website link and see immediately how ridiculous that report
was. But, after careful consideration, I decided not to sink to their level of internet fighting.
IT IS MY HOPE that MY REPUTATION as a RESPONSIBLE BREEDER is enough to convince
potential clients that adopting a bulldog puppy from me is a wise decision. I provide my Reference page for the
convenience of anyone willing to take the time to research my program. I take my breeding program very seriously, and I do things the right way.
I provide my clients with all the information they need to raise a HEALTHY bulldog. I am there for my clients BEYOND
ADOPTION DAY, throughout the dog's entire life. I pride myself on being such a breeder, and it breaks my heart that
my program has been slandered in such a brutal way online. Unfortunately, there
are people in this world who would rather hurt someone with a differing opinion than to simply walk away.
When you learn how many of my clients have two Dog Bluff dogs, you
begin to understand how special my dogs are. I even have one family with THREE of my dogs! The testimonials
on my REFERENCE page are truly the most precious part of my website.
THANK
YOU for taking the time to read my response to the crazy ripoff report about me online. The only thing I can do about it is to remain the person I am,
willing to keep my dignity and refuse to allow the lies of one person to hurt the success of my breeding program.
Will my puppy come with Registration Papers on
Adoption Day? How do I get my puppy registered under my name? Our adult Oldies are
registered with several clubs: IOEBA, NBA, NKC, CKC, & WBA. All puppies born at Dog Bluff are registered
shortly after birth. They go home with pre-printed puppy certificates from the kennel club registries. Your puppy's
name WILL BEGIN with "Dog Bluff," but you may choose any name you like following our prefix.
What should I expect when I bring my new puppy
home? Once you send your security deposit to hold your puppy, you will receive several chapters
from my book on raising bulldog puppies. These chapters include tips on house-training, what to do in emergency situations,
required immunizations, first-purchase suggestions, best foods to use, and more... to help you prepare for your new
4-legged child!
 What are some ways that I can keep my bulldog HEALTHY
- and possibly increase the lifespan of my 4-legged family member? DIET
plays a huge role in the life of a bulldog. We use food with NO corn, wheat or soy (please see the next Q&A for
details on dog food choices). Keeping your dog fit & trim is essential if you want him to live longer. I would
suggest that you have your vet check your dog's weight when you're there for the 6-month check-up and again at adulthood (around
age 1 year+) to see that your dog is at optimum weight. While it is tempting to give your dog treats and spoil him with
goodies, you are only hurting him in the long run if he is overweight. Extra weight on your dog's bones will only speed
up the aging process, increase arthritis tendencies, encourage laziness, and can also be a trigger for heart disease. Proper
nutrition is only ONE of the discussions we will have when you interview with me about a Dog Bluff puppy. I have
done major research into dietary benefits and am willing to share my findings with my adoptive families.
DAILY EXERCISE is also very important!
Just as humans need a certain amount of daily exercise, our canine friends must have exercise to maintain good health.
Consult with me or with your veterinarian as to how much is enough or "too much" when it comes to your bulldog. Age
must be factored in when it comes to exercise, obviously.
QUALITY TIME spent with your dog is a MUST.
From the time your puppy leaves Dog Bluff, it will be up to YOU to be sure your puppy bonds with you and your family.
Bulldogs are "hands-on" dogs. They MUST feel loved and they MUST have your attention. If not, they WILL become
depressed. Please do not adopt from me if you are unable to provide your puppy/dog with daily quality time. Dogs
left in an kennel for hours on end do not thrive.
What is the average Life Span of an Olde English Bulldogge? I cannot answer that question from EXPERIENCE because I have only raised bulldogs for 18 years. In that
period of time, I have only had a "few" reports that my babies had passed away from old age. My best estimation would
be between 10 to 15 years, IF the dog mainly lives inside (at least during the hottest and coldest months), and is given proper
care (high quality food with no corn/wheat/soy, health maintenance & disease prevention must be a top priority,
and adequate exercise is a plus). Also, if your dog is spayed/neutered at a young age, this is thought to increase the
life span, as reproductive cancers are no longer a threat if you remove the appropriate organs before they have time to "age"
and become hazardous to the dog's health.
| Make SURE the bag reads "Naturals" down the side! |
|
What Dog Foods are best, and WHY?
We ONLY use food that contains NO WHEAT, NO CORN, and NO SOY. We use Adult
formula of HIGH QUALITY dog food, for every age dog, from young pups to old dogs. We will explain this during
our interview. Favorite brands at Dog Bluff are Diamond Naturals (found at Tractor Supply and various Feed/Supply
stores) and Kirkland Signature Chicken/Veggie (found at Costco, made by Diamond company). If you are unable to
find Diamond Naturals or Kirkland Signature foods, we suggest the following high-quality foods with NO CORN/WHEAT/SOY:
Nature's Recipe (PetSmart)
Blue Buffalo (PetSmart)
Taste of the Wild (Tractor Supply).
| NO WHEAT-CORN-SOY in Diamond Naturals |
|
Here's why we avoid wheat/corn/soy:
1) WHEAT turns to YEAST on the dog's skin.
Yeast feeds the demodectic mites which live on canines & felines. If you take wheat OUT of the diet, you decrease
the chances of skin issues, such as demodex, allergies to food fillers, etc.
2) CORN is not digestible. It is a "filler" and only produces
more POOP in your yard. So why waste money on something that is not good for your pet?
3) SOY is not the worst enemy, but it does make
"eye boogers" and ear smells worse than they need to be. It causes a protein build-up in the body that sometimes makes
for yucky results.
We use ADULT formula for all ages of our dogs here, because of the research
we've done on our own. Bulldogs are clunky, thick-boned dogs. Certain puppy food contains too many "growth-speeders"
and a bulldog raised on puppy food for the first year of life tends to grow too quickly. This accelerated growth increases
the risk of early onset arthritis in the adult dog. We believe in PREVENTION at Dog Bluff, and this is just one of our
practices to help lengthen the life span of our dogs.
What Health Guarantee comes with a Dog
Bluff puppy? How old is my puppy on Adoption Day? How do I protect my puppy from fatal diseases? Is
my puppy checked by a veterinarian prior to Adoption Day? Please see my ADOPTION PROCESS page. These questions are answered in Section #2, in my Dog
Bluff Health Statement / Contract.
 What QUESTIONS should I ask when I am shopping
around for the right veterinarian's office? I would start with the following questions:
1) What are your hours/days of business?
2) What are your after-hours / emergency care procedures / policies?
Am I allowed to call the doctor at home after business hours if I have a true emergency or must I travel to my nearest ER
vet?
3) Do you offer injectible bordatella (kennel cough) vaccines rather than
the nasally-administered vaccine? (Much better to stay with injectible-only vaccines for bulldogs and other
short-muzzled breeds.)
4) What is your standard office visit fee? How much will it be when
I bring my new puppy in for its second set of shots and a stool check?
5) How much is the Rabies vaccine if my dog is there for a routine visit?
Do you offer Rabies vaccine CLINICS each year? If so, how much would the Rabies vaccine be at the clinic?
6) How old must my puppy be, or how much must my puppy weigh before it's
old enough to be spayed / neutered? What are the price ranges for that surgery? (Our dogs range from
55-75 lbs as adults.) If my puppy has a belly-button (umbilical hernia - happens from time to time), how much extra
do you charge to correct that during spay/neuter surgery?
7) May I drop off my dog early in the morning and pick him up after work?
Is there an extra charge for my dog to stay with you during the appointment day?
8) What is your procedure if an animal believed to be infected with parvo
or distemper happens to walk into your office? (This is a real danger
to young puppies!!! Please carry your puppy into the vet's office and do NOT let your puppy touch the floor or the ground
of suspicious environments... your puppy will not be protected against fatal diseases until he has received at least 3 rounds
of puppy shots. Even then, please use caution before exposing your new puppy to high-animal-traffic areas. Distemper/Parvo
is extremely easy to pass from animal-to-animal, AND from PEOPLE-to-animal just from simple contact with an infected animal.)
 How do I reserve a puppy, and how do I get that
puppy home if I live across the map from you? When
you're ready to adopt, please CALL me for an interview. PLEASE read my "Adoption Process" page,
as it covers everything from our first call to safe transport options. My preferred transport method if you cannot drive
here is using puppy air transport, where your puppy flies IN THE CABIN with my puppy transporter for same-day delivery.
We will NOT ship your puppy in the belly of a plane, regardless
of the time of year, temperatures, or for any other reason. So please be familiar with the options I have provided,
as they are safe and reliable.
 How do you determine Picking Order for Adoptive
Families? I usually form a "waiting list" once I announce a planned breeding. When
the dogs actually begin BREEDING, I will then accept up to 6 security deposits on a litter. Picking order is determined
by the order in which security deposits are received. If I have folks on a waiting list, I contact them with my request
for their security deposit once breeding has begun. They have a certain # of business days for their security deposit
to reach me if they want to hold their place in picking order that they've been in since calling to be on my waiting list.
FOR EXAMPLE: You are 3rd on my waiting
list for a puppy, and I call you with news that breeding has begun. You have 5 business days to get your security deposit
to me to keep 3rd-pick for that litter. If the 1st or 2nd pick families ahead of you change their minds or do not
respond to my call, you move up in line accordingly. Likewise, if you wait around and you don't send your deposit in
a timely manner, you lose your spot in picking order. If the 4th pick person gets their deposit to me within their 5
business days and I don't hear from you within that week, I DO try to contact you to see if there is a communication breakdown
of sorts. If I do not receive a call or some type of explanation, then the 4th pick family would take your place at
3rd pick, out of fairness. This is the ONLY way I am able to be fair to all concerned. My
system has worked all these years without any complaints from my adoptive families, and I am PROUD to say that I have had
several return clients in recent years!
Do you sell to other breeders?
If a RESPONSIBLE breeder proves to me that he/she shares my beliefs, morals
and practices in breeding bulldogs, I do make this consideration and allow my puppies to be placed into a respected breeding
program. Typically, however, I prefer that my puppies are adopted into pet-only homes with a spay/neuter agreement by
age 6 to 8 months of age.
Should I microchip my puppy/dog? This is totally a personal preference. There are advantages and disadvantages to this mode of protection
/ proof of ownership. Please discuss this with your vet, and I am happy to elaborate during our interview.
What are some things that I need in my home before
Adoption Day? My clients receive a list of "suggested first purchases"
which include the following items. This list is not mandatory, but covers many items that are needed from time to time
with new puppies:
1)
Good-sized black-wire (open-air) CRATE
2)
Food and Water Bowls that ATTACH
TO THE WIRE OF THE CRATE.
3) DOG HOUSE for outside shelter IF your dog will be outside for long
periods of time.
4)
DOG FOOD that contains NO CORN, NO WHEAT, NO SOY.
5)
Adams Flea & Tick mist, SAFE
for Puppies.
6)
Frontline Plus for puppies – dosed
by the weight of your puppy.
7) DIGITAL THERMOMETER.
8)
Baby Wipes / Handy-Wipes NON-scented.
9)
FREE Stuff: NEWSPAPERS & Old Sheets.
How do I keep shedding down to a minimum?
I provide my clients with helpful tips on safe products and how to keep a bulldog's skin healthy. You'd
be surprised at our tried-&-true methods. First, NUTRITION plays a key role in healthy bulldog skin/coat. We
do not use "soap" on our puppies/dogs unless they have rolled in grease or something "nasty." In the event that
actual shampoo is needed, we prefer human dandruff shampoo (Selson Blue, Head & Shoulders, T-Gel brands are best), because
these are formulated for sensative skin. Be sure to rinse well, as soap residue is a major cause for skin irritation.
Do not over-bathe your puppy/dog. I instruct my clients to bathe their dog only when the dog begins to "smell like a
dirty dog." If your dog is not stinky, leave him alone and let him be a dog. You may spray him with Adams Flea/Tick
mist if you're worried about fleas or use Frontline for month-long flea/tick prevention. But don't bathe your puppy/dog
more than weekly, and preferably no more than twice monthly. The fewer baths, the better. You can diminish your
dog's natural oils that keep the skin & coat healthy if you overbathe.
GROOMING is minimal with a bulldog as long as you provide proper nutrition.
The less you brush, the less mess you will have.
 Will my puppy BITE/CHEW on my fingers/toes and
on anything he can get his teeth on? YEP! The first reason for biting/chewing is
that your puppy needs to lose his baby teeth, and chewing is the only way to get rid of the baby teeth. Secondly, HE
IS A PUPPY!
He has been raised with siblings; over the course of 6 weeks together, THEY PLAY HARD. They pull each other's ears,
grab each other's legs, play tug-o-war with sticks, towels, or any object they can get their teeth into. Your puppy
will be confused during the transition from Dog Bluff to your home so it might take a few days for you to experience
the play-biting thing. But once he "comes alive" and feels comfortable with you and your family, he WILL go for toes,
fingers, pant legs-- whatever is close enough to "PLAY" with. This is a NATURAL habit for puppies. It's a
playing way to establish dominance among puppies, but you do not want this to become an issue a your puppy grows up.
Bulldog puppies are "cute" and sound so funny when they growl at each other, or even at YOU when you discipline him -- it's
almost tempting to "make" your puppy growl by getting into an aggressive play stance with him. But please know that
your puppy will grow up to be a big bulldog one day, and you certainly don't want that adult bulldog to think that he is the
boss. You must establish and keep all humans in the household as "Alpha" in pecking order. Your dog must never
be allowed to chew on you as a puppy. Therefore, please have plenty of alternative chew toys or teething tools.
Our preference is a dear antler, or some type of NATURAL bone substance that will not splinter and choke your puppy/dog.
We can discuss appropriate chew tools for your puppy during our telephone conversations (please remind me!).
How to correct play-biting: DO NOT ALLOW YOUR
PUPPY TO BITE OR CHEW ON YOU! You must be the "alpha" in your home. Allowing your puppy to chew on your hands
or even your toes tells that puppy that he is the "boss" and can run over you from now on. Step
1) If/when your puppy bites or chews at you, yell "No Bite!" while you push him away from
you. Then, immediately give him a chew tool that was purchased just for him.
Step 2) If he comes back
for more, accompany the "No Bite" with a flyswatter to his behind, with a few quick taps, just
enough to sting him a bit. Again, place his chew tool toward his mouth for reinforcement on what he is allowed to chew.
Pet him if he chews on the "allowed" chew tool.
Step 3) If he returns
a THIRD time to chew on you, repeat step 2, but pop him with the flyswatter until you KNOW it has stung his behind,
because he will probably run for cover at this point. Still, take him the allowed chew tool again, and pet him when
he chews on it.
Setp 4) If steps 1-3 do not work, put pup in his kennel for some down time,
and fuss at him ("No Bite!") all the way to the kennel.
Please Note: Flyswatters
offer a safe way to discipline your bulldog puppy. It offers a little "sting" without causing damage to his bone structure.
You must be careful about discipline methods, because you can HURT your puppy by spanking him with your hand or with other
objects. We keep a flyswatter in every room of our house. Even our ADULT dogs respect the swatter!
Do bulldogs DIG outside?
Almost every breed will "dig" if given the opportunity. Generally, this is from
boredom or can be from the dog feeling lonely. If given plenty of playtime and supervision, you should not have trouble
with the digging thing.
Why do you push the idea of spay/neuter by
the age of 5 to 6 months? I prefer that my puppies
are PETS ONLY in their adoptive homes. For this reason, there is no need for a female to go through the trouble of heat
cycles that normally begin around age 6 to 7 months of age; these cycles ruin carpet, flooring, furniture, etc., and
will attract male dogs to the property from miles away. Males don't worry with heat cycles, but they will tend to "wander"
when they are left intact for life, in search of females in heat. BIG HEALTH BENEFIT to spay/neuter: Dogs normally
live longer when this is done early in their lives. When spayed, females are less likely to have cancer-causing uterine
problems. Neutering a male dog is not necessarily crucial before adulthood, but the sooner you neuter your male, the
sooner you take away the chances of testicular cancer. Basically, you lengthen the life span of your dog by spay/neuter
surgery early in life.
What is the difference between an Olde English Bulldogge
(OEB / Oldie) and a Standard English Bulldog (EB)? The Olde English
Bulldogge (Oldie) is close to what the ORIGINAL bulldog was, bred to be an athletic and healthy farm dog.
They were meant to be healthy, hearty, and strong, able to live outdoors in most climates. A Dog Bluff adult Oldie will
range from 55-75 pounds (depending on gender and parents' structure), will sport a bully head and a taught, muscular
body. Average height in our adults ranges from 18-20 inches at the top of the shoulder. Our Oldies are bully and wrinkly
enough to be beautiful, but they have enough muzzle length to free-breathe, run, & play all day long without
difficulty! All of our Oldies live OUTSIDE, but they DO have access to our A/C building in the summer months, just
because we spoil our bully kids around here. However, they prefer swimming in the pond to sitting around in the
A/C! As a rule, Oldies breed and whelp naturally. We raise Oldies here, but we're also proud to own "Logan" - our resident EB.
The Standard English
Bulldog (EB) was thought to be created by selective breeding techniques, making a shorter, more compact build
of bulldog. The EB is very short (ranging from 15-18 inches in height) and extremely "bully" - very flat-faced
/ hardly any muzzle length, wrinkled face/head & body, and quite often has a screw-tail. (The screwtail trait
is seen in some of our Oldie lines, as well.) Even though the EB is smaller and "cute" to the eyes, their body
structure IS physically limiting. By reducing the length of the muzzle, the nasal passageways are crunched,
increasing the chances of breathing problems. Typically, EB's must live inside, as their muzzles are too short
to withstand outside elements. Due to shorter leg length, the EB is normally not as athletic as an Oldie.
Between their short stature and short muzzles, they are usually unable to do strenuous exercise without becoming
exhausted. And, because they are so short and compact, EB's are prone to weight gain; so owners must
be careful to monitor food intake. An adult EB should not weigh over 55-60 lbs. EB's are known for requiring veterinary
assistance to breed and require C-section births the majority of the time. It's RARE, but SOMETIMES an EB can breed
AND whelp naturally! Dog Bluff Logan, is our "exception to the rule!" He
is extremely athletic for an EB, and he LOVES living outside and running on the farm during cooler months. Logan
is 18" tall, and weighs in at a healthy 50 lbs. He has enough "leg" to him to race around and play with our Oldies without
problems. So far, he has shown the ability to breed naturally, which makes him even more exceptional!
Many thanks, by the way, to my good
friend, Sherry Stroud, who allows Logan to live inside at her home during our hotter months, so Logan has the best of
both worlds! We do plan on using Logan in the future of our breeding program... so stay tuned to his page for developments.
My preference is the Oldie, simply for the overall health, athleticism,
stamina, and especially for their LOOKS and personality!
Examples of both breeds:
Standard English Bulldog vs. Olde English Bulldogge
| LOGAN is a Standard English Bulldog |
|
| Tader is a Generational OLDE ENGLISH Bulldogge |
|
| Logan (EB) has a short, compact build |
|
| He is quite athletic for an EB, and we're thrilled with him. |
| The OEB has a larger, taller, muscular structure |
|
| Dog Bluff SHERMAN |
We own an OLD dog. What should I do
to make sure my OLD dog will accept a NEW PUPPY? It is YOUR responsibility to make
sure you have socialized your older dog appropriately before bringing in a new puppy or a new adult dog. My strongest
advice is to expose your older dog to other small dogs or puppies if you have willing participants to help you with this.
You may also contact your local PetSmart or a local trainer to seek advice on obedience and socialization training.
I do NOT pretend to be a dog trainer. Please be confident that your current pets WILL ACCEPT A NEW PUPPY before you
reserve a Dog Bluff puppy.
Will my bulldog love my CAT? Excellent question! If you already OWN a cat, and you are adopting a bulldog PUPPY, everything
should be fine. (It's good if your cat's front paws are declawed, as one scratch to the puppy's eye can result in an
ulcerated cornea.) You may EXPECT the cat to paw & hiss at a new puppy, because cats just don't have the tolerance
that dogs do for newbies in the home. Most of the time, cats and new puppies end up sleeping together and being life
long buddies. TIP: Make sure the litterbox is out of reach to puppies/dogs, because cat poop seems to be a temptation
to puppies/dogs to eat - YUCK! Now... IF you own a cat and you plan on adopting an Adult bulldog, you must be sure that
the dog is socialized with cats prior to adoption, or you may have a major disaster on your hands. For example, our
dogs consider stray cats, squirrells, ground moles, mice, slow birds, oppossums, and other "critters" as FAIR GAME.
We don't have cats, so felines are considered "critters" on our farm, and bulldogs are critter-gitters. I have had my
Retiree dogs to be adopted into homes with cats, and they did just fine. But I cannot guarantee that an adult dog of
any breed will take well to a cat. Puppies, on the other hand, are just great to socialize with cats and/or any other
species of pets already in the home.
I know that for the first few nights in the new
home, my puppy will CRY in his kennel for a while, UNLESS I put him in bed with me. Is this a GOOD thing or a BAD
thing to start? Allowing a puppy to sleep with you or your kids is TOTALLY up to YOU,
the adoptive family. I don't judge, either way. If you can stand the first few nights of your new puppy sqawking
for long periods of time, go for it. The quicker that puppy learns that the kennel is his bed, the better. BUT,
if you are a "snuggler" and you don't mind your puppy snuggling with you at bedtime, here's my suggestion:
BUY A WATERPROOF MATTRESS PAD and do NOT be upset when that puppy pees
in your bed. THINK ABOUT THIS: What is the FIRST thing you do when you wake up in the mornings?
Most of us hit the restroom, right? It is no different for a puppy / dog. When a puppy wakes up, the
first urge is to urinate. If your puppy so much as whimpers during the night, it's time to jump up and take him
out for a potty break. If you're too sleepy to do this quickly, you should expect an "accident" to happen.
Instead of getting mad at the puppy (puppies do not have complete control of the bladder for 3 to 4 months), just be prepared
for accidents and deal with them as they happen. My biggest rule of thumb in house training or if you choose to allow
your puppy in the bed is this: If your puppy has an accident inside the home whatsoever, it is YOUR FAULT. Deal
with it.
There is hardly a substitute for the bond between a child and a new
puppy; if your child begs for the puppy to be in the bed, that's totally your call. But protect the mattress ahead of
time, so that you're not forced to purchase a new mattress.
How are BULLDOGS with CHILDREN? Depending on how much time you devote to obedience training, your bulldog puppy or adult dog should be excellent
around children. From adoption day throughout old age, bulldogs have the potential to be docile, well-mannered, loving
dogs with laid-back temperaments. Typically, bulldogs LOVE for children to roll all over them, hang on them, and just
spend every waking moment TOUCHING them. Bulldogs THRIVE on human touch, and they have a unique talent of
reading our emotions. As a rule, they ADOPT their "human children" and are pretty good protectors of children. While
my dogs are very clown-like and just thrive on attention and playtime with their owners, I do give one specific
warning to parents of small children: Once your bulldog has reached adulthood, DO NOT SPANK YOUR CHILD in front of your
grown bulldog. I have not had any reports of ANY of my dogs biting their owners in this type of situation, but I can
say with certainty that a bulldog WILL put himself between a parent and small child if the dog believes that the child is
in danger. So... if you feel the need to spank your child, it is best to put the dog outside or in another room before
doing so. For that matter, if you raise your voice to a threatening tone at your child, be prepared for your bulldog
to hover close to your child out of sheer protection. The dog may still be wagging his tail at you, in
hopes that you're not "mad" at HIM! But he will take the brunt of your anger before he'll allow you to harm your own
child, regardless of the fact that your child deserves to be disciplined. This is just one of the ways that a bulldog
shows LOVE for children. In the same respect, if your child is outside playing, your bulldog will have a watchful
eye on your child AND the environment around your child. Rest assurred that no harm will come to your child without
"war" between your bulldog and an intruder to your property. Lord willing, though, this will not be an issue.
But I take much comfort in the fact that my bulldogs love children, adults, and even senior citizens equally, and make excellent
pets for any age person.
How long has Dog Bluff Bulldogges' breeding program
been around? I am proud to have enjoyed our breeding program since 1992! With each planned
breeding and with each litter I raise, I ALWAYS learn something new, which allows me to keep improving my program. I
am blessed with excellent bloodlines, and with outstanding clients!
Have you ever done cross-breeding? Certainly. Over the years, we have done experimental breedings between two different purebred dogs
to create a hybrid bully litter. We've done this in the past to produce "affordable" bulldogs. My
favorite hybrid litters were produced by breeding one of my Oldie males to my Boxer female. I lovingly called them "Oldie-Boxers"
and sold them for less than half of what I charge for my pure Oldies. I kept a waiting list for these hybrid puppies,
and several of their owners have provided a paragraph on my Reference Page. I retired my boxer after 3 litters,
and she now enjoys the comforts of her forever home with extended family members. Those fortunate enough to
own our Oldie-Boxers wish that we still did this cross breeding, but we've decided to stick to the pure Oldies from here
on out. I am not opposed to the idea of studding our males to approved females of certain bully breeds, IF I am sure
that the result will be a beautiful hybrid litter with excellent temperament and body structure. Part of being a breeder
is being open-minded enough to explore possibilities. Still, the pure Olde English Bulldogge is my preference when it
comes to bully breeds.
How often do you breed your females?
When an adult female is mature enough to breed (approximately 18 months to 2 years of age), we assist
her with and supervise the raising of her first litter closely, to determine what kind of mamma dog she will be. If
she proves to be a "natural" at motherhood with her first litter, we will sometimes allow her to breed again on the following
heat cycle; this produces two litters within a year. We will then give this dog a full year "off" before breeding her
again. Sometimes, a female will only have ONE litter and is then spayed for early retirement, depending
on how she reacts to motherhood. "Good mamma" dogs will usually have 3 litters before retiring at a young age,
so that they have a long life with their Forever Families.
If I decide to breed my female dog, will you be
there to help me through that process? I do not sell my puppies for breeding purposes. I
do not appreciate it when people buy a puppy from me and decide later on a "whim" to breed their dog. Can I prevent
this from happening? NO. But I can warn you in advance: If you have any intentions of breeding your
female Dog Bluff bulldog, you need to make this clear in your adoption interview. We can go into an in-depth conversation
that will probably convince you to stick with Pet-Only adoption. Please do extensive research on the perils of
breeding before you ask for my advice on the subject, as I value my family time and do not care to spend hours on the
telephone with someone who is not prepared for the physical, emotional and financial responsibilities of breeding a bulldog.
The potential nightmares of birthing and raising puppies are too numerous to list on this page. I do this because it
is my PASSION and I signed on for all of the ups AND downs of having a successful breeding program. It took me several
years to actually have one litter that I saw any profit on, and that was very little. If you think that breeding your
dog is FUN, offers extra money for your household, and that you want your dog to experience being a mamma "just once
and then I'll have her spayed..." - you are putting yourself AND your dog through totally unnecessary mental and physical
stress. I wish I had a dollar for every time I've heard somebody say, "Dogs have been having puppies for centuries -
my dog will be fine... nature will take its course..." Belive me, nature WILL take its course and have you running to
your vet for an emergency C-section in the middle of the night. With most Oldie mammas, birthing is natural, but sometimes
even the most athletic dog can have complications and emergency surgery is the only option to save mamma dog and hopefully,
puppies. Whether birthing is natural or surgical, there are many things that can go wrong; an inexperienced
owner is likely to lose puppies if not educated on how to help mamma and pups. You'll be praying that your mamma dog lives
so that you're not bottle-feeding a litter of puppies every 2 hours, 24/7, getting zero sleep, tending to sick puppies if
they get so much as a sniffle, tending to mamma dogs with mastitis. Even if you are fortunate enough to have a
good mamma dog that does EVERYTHING RIGHT with her puppies, you still need to be a stay-at-home owner for the duration of
raising your puppies to the point that they are eating dry food and drinking water independently... that would be at least
4 to 5 weeks being able to supervise the entire ordeal. The amount of money you will spend on raising a litter
the RIGHT way will make your head spin.
Do I have a problem with spontaneous breeders? YES.
| Dog Bluff Serena |
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| Generational OEB |
How do I obtain a "Retiree" dog?
Our "Retirees" are normally females. Once a female dog is retired, we screen her Forever Family
carefully. We PREFER that our retirees be the ONLY dog in the home. Otherwise, we hope that they will have a buddy
of the opposite sex, for the best possible companionship. The #1 requirement is that our Retiree be spayed/neutered
within 1 month of adoption into the new home. This allows for BONDING between the dog and the new family, as the dog
will be dependent upon its Forever Family for comfort after the surgery. Call Angela for details on this special adoption
opportunity, which comes along RARELY at Dog Bluff!
Advantages of Adopting a Retiree:
House-trained, Maintenance-Free, Up to date on ALL health care, Protected
against heartworms, flea/tick control, wormed regularly, VERY socialized with people and other dogs, and a Retiree is PAST
all of the puppy worries.
OUR NEXT RETIREE will be "SERENA" - please
see Serena's page for several photos. She will retire after her 3rd litter of puppies, planned for late 2010 to early
2011. Serena MUST be the ONLY FEMALE and we do prefer that she is the "only dog" because she is truly an attention hog!
She deserves to be "Queen" in her forever home. Serena is great with all ages, from babies to elderly. Warning:
Serena requires the human touch, so her paw (toenails) WILL meet your leg if you're not currently petting her.
She likes to "hold hands" while being petted, as well. This is a habit of hers since she was a puppy, so there's no
use in trying to change it. You must love touching/petting her to adopt her.
Currently, Serena is "on hold" for
PAMELA of Columbia, SC.
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